January 30th - Deception Island and Whaler's Bay

What a fabulous day!  Early this morning we went through Neptune's Bellows and entered Desolation Island, in the South Shetland archipelago.  This island is actually the caldera of an active volcano which last erupted in 1967 and 1969, seriously damaging scientific research stations.  The unique landscape is comprised of barren volcanic slopes, steaming beaches and ash-laden glaciers.  It has a distinctive horseshoe-shape with a large, flooded caldera which opens to the sea, forming a natural sheltered harbor. 

Spending the day in an active volcano is quite an experience!  Our first landing was in Telefon Bay where we were able to walk up the caldera to a high peak.  Spectacular views but it was SO windy (and yes, that is why I am standing with my legs at that unusual angle)!!

After lunch we continued to Whaler's Bay, a small natural harbor just inside the caldera, near Neptune's Bellows.  This was a fabulous landing where we could walk a long distance on the beach and climb to Neptune's Window.  Great view of our boat from the beach at Whaler's Bay:

A lonely Gentoo penguin - we don't usually see them on their own, away from their colony.

Wonderful view from Neptune's Window!

Whalers used to look out to sea through Neptune's window to monitor the many whaling ships.  Whale carcasses were then brought back into the harbor for processing.

Back down to Whalers Bay, this sheltered inlet that was historically used by sealers and then whalers from the 1820s.  This fur seal was bored with our visit.

And then we ran into a lone chin-strap penguin making his way down the beach.  I told him about the lone gentoo penguin by Neptune's Window but he wasn't interested in having him as a friend.  I did confirm that the penguin species don't mix.

The geography makes it a perfect place for ships to shelter in rough water and this area contains some of the most significant whaling artifacts and remains to be found in the whole of Antarctica.  Below are the whale oil tanks and a tipped flensing deck where the whales were processed.

These are cookers and boilers.

Originally whaler's barracks, this was later called Biscoe House when used as a British scientific base.

There were originally 35 graves plus a memorial to 10 whalers lost at sea.  This is all that remains after the cemetery was buried by the volcanic eruption in 1969.

And on a more upbeat note, I saw tons of these gorgeous brittle sea stars on the shore and in the water.  Closely related to starfish, I later learned that they can actually walk across with their flexible arms.