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February 2nd - 4th: Life is an Adventure

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After breakfast and a PCR test this morning, we had several great lectures to take our mind off the turbulent sea.  It had been a pretty bouncy night and the captain expected it to be rough for a good part of the day.  We had a great talk learning about how the wildlife adapts to survive in the arctic or antarctic.  We also had a great talk about living and working in the Antarctic - Emily spent three summer months at the Palmer Antarctic research station and then went back the following year to oversee the science lab for 7 months during the winter.  What an experience! All was good on the MS Fran....until our fabulous lunch concluded with John be whisked away to do another PCR test...his early morning test had come back POSITIVE.   I was flabbergasted.  We had PCR tests on 1/18, 1/21, 1/24....Antigen tests on 1/25, 1/28. and 1/31...and now he tests positive on 2/2?  Mind-blowing since we had been in a "Hurtigruten bubble" since 1/24, nine days e...
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February 1st - Back Across the Drake Passage

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We are not going to experience the "Drake Lake" on our return home as they expect conditions on this passage to be even rougher than the trip down!  Although John and I had used the neck patch on the way down, John experienced some horrible side effects to the patch...and it turns out he doesn't even get seasick!  So this time, he isn't taking anything and I am sticking to Dramamine and Bonine.  The pictures don't really capture our ride perfectly, but you'll get the idea. Fortunately on sea days, the expedition team puts on fabulous lectures.  Each expedition cruise is staffed with marine biologists, ornithologists, climate scientists, naturalists, historians, wildlife biologists, etc.  They each exude enthusiasm for their field, share lots of information and colorful stories.  Due to covid, the lectures on the way to the Antarctic were streamed to our cabins.  On the way back, they did allow people to attend lectures and visit the science center...
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January 31 - Danco Island & Damoy Point

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Today was an exceptional day with LOTS of activity.  It was our last day with landings in the Antarctic and and the weather was spectacular.  We started the day with a mandatory Covid antigen test (our 3rd since arriving in Punta Arenas) and I am happy to report that the entire ship tested negative.   We had some gorgeous views while sailing to our landing spot and the cloudy skies continued to clear.  Lots of snow and beautiful icebergs AND surprisingly, not cold.  We have had temps in the mid- to high- 30s the entire trip. Our first landing was Danco Island, a one mile long island in the southern part of the Errera Channel.  This island is home to approximately 1,600 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins which breed high up on the slopes.  This little guy greeted our boat but there were many more! It was mesmerizing to watch them walking around the beach, hopping on rocks and then finally diving in. But enough penguin gazing - it was time to hike up...
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January 30th - Deception Island and Whaler's Bay

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What a fabulous day!  Early this morning we went through Neptune's Bellows and entered Desolation Island, in the South Shetland archipelago.  This island is actually the caldera of an active volcano which last erupted in 1967 and 1969, seriously damaging scientific research stations.  The unique landscape is comprised of barren volcanic slopes, steaming beaches and ash-laden glaciers.  It has a distinctive horseshoe-shape with a large, flooded caldera which opens to the sea, forming a natural sheltered harbor.  Spending the day in an active volcano is quite an experience!  Our first landing was in Telefon Bay where we were able to walk up the caldera to a high peak.  Spectacular views but it was SO windy (and yes, that is why I am standing with my legs at that unusual angle)!! After lunch we continued to Whaler's Bay, a small natural harbor just inside the caldera, near Neptune's Bellows.  This was a fabulous landing where we could walk a long dis...
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